EPISODE 8
THE CURSE OF FIRE & EMBER
SAGAING, MYANMAR
Spirit mediums can earn large sums of money from wealthy business owners seeking consultation or blessings from Nat spirits. So, there is always a lurking question with money in the picture, are there charlatans in the mix, or are all the spirit mediums telling the truth? The same can be asked for Nat Palaces - these houses of worship similarly operate as places of business, where large sums of cash flow in and out during Nat Pwe. Outside the city of Monywa are two instances where separate palaces claim to hold original Nat statues.
First, in Maungdon village is a Nat Palace for a notorious witch named Amay Yayin. Yu Kiaw Son is the palace steward, and he prides himself in maintaining strong traditions, and giving back to the community. His statue of Amay Yayin is claimed to be a physical manifestation of the witch herself, which appeared in a cave over two hundred years ago. But just down the street in Zeedaw village is yet another palace of Amay Yayin, this one managed by a woman named Amay Daw. Her temple has taken shape as a more kid-friendly event, and while not as much money flows through her operation, she has managed to make a name for herself as an original. Despite their individual claims, both palaces exist in harmony.
But in Ahlone village, there is a much more turbulent relationship between two palaces for a Nat called Ahlone Bobogyi. Pyo Pyo is a young woman who keeps her bloodline’s tradition of maintaining Ahlone Bobogyi’s ritual cycle. She will be leading a prayer on the mountain where he committed suicide, but does not receive the respect she deserves. Another family who lives across the street claims to hold the original Bobogyi statue, and many in the community have begun to believe it. Pyo Pyo’s stays true to her responsibility, despite being discredited.